Annapurna Circuit part2 and a little outlook

19-02: Nangethanti (2430m) to Poon Hill (3200m) and Chitre (2390m)

Waking up for a sunrise over mystical forest. And a long, well merited breakfast. As well as the hot shower which comes as the do-it-yourself model: a bucket of hot, well not cold water. Anyway if you just have been through purgatory or just don´t really mind you´re fine with it. Then up to Gorakhpur. Everything seems so easy, gentle, compared to yesterday. Through lush, friendly, magic forest, passing Rhododendron – the national flower of Nepal – as red as can be.

From Gorakhpur, we take the little side-trip up to Poon Hill (remember, it´s just a little bit over 3000m of altitude, so, it´s just a hill) to indulge in the famous views. On the way up, there´s a little bit of snow along the way. And the combination of two grown ups, adults and snow knows only one possible result – snow fight! After all, why should we leave the fun to the kids?

Although we´re a little bit late – clouds start closing in around noon – the views are fantastic, limiting your language to superlatives. Dhaulagiri, Tukuche, Nilgiri, Annapurna South, Machhapuchre – breathtaking views of some of the most famous mountains in the world. We´re indulging, taking in the scenery. Moments of pure joy and happiness. So, obviously we end up leaving late, having to rush. But there´s always time to set up a prayer flag on a beautiful spot (I mean, who are we tu judge who´s right? It could well be the Buddhists…). I always liked the little ones – I just didn´t know that they were also rather short. Rather very short. Anyway, it´s the thought that counts.

After hopefully securing some protection from high places we continue to rush down further to Chitre. There we decide it´s time for an early stop – we don´t want to end up walking in the darkness again. After all, we had just entered (former) maoist territory. The graffiti feels odd – knowing you´ve just crossed the front lines of a very recent conflict.

There´s only one guesthouse open in Chitre (it´s the very beginning of the season) and, being the only guests, we get the best room with perfect views of Dhaulagiri through one window front and Annapurna South through the other. And, as to proof His existence (although, what kind of god would let himself proof?) - just for the few minutes of sunset, the clouds, which had until then hidden these two mountains, disappear. A perfect, divine timing. There is a god. And life is good.

A little preview on the following days:

20.02.: Chitre to Tatopani (1190m)
Last day with Amelia, rushing down. Remembering, there´s a gps, keeping track of our movements. So far we walked 51,65 km, reached an altitude of 3206m, ascended 4773m and descended 4630m in total. Not bad for just 3 trekking days.

21.02.: Tatopani to Ghasa (2010m)
Sore legs from rushing down yesterday. First day in ages I travel solitary. Try chhang, home-made rice beer. Tastes like cheap white wine. Total km 69,44, total ascent 6092m

22.02.: Ghasa to Marpha (2670m)

Long trekking day (26,63 km, 999m ascent) with legs still sore. Beautiful views of Dhaulagiri Icefall.

23.02.: Marpha to Kagbeni (2800m)

Short trekking day due to bad weather – I consider it a half rest day (16,29 km, 508m ascent).

24.02.: Kagbeni to Sher Dak (3750m) to Kagbeni to Muktinath (3760m)
Walking only from Kagbeni to Muktinath felt not enough for a whole, sunny day, so I decided to do a summit too. Added up to 23,43km, 2136m of ascent and 950m of descent. Ringing the trip to a total of 135,79km and 9735m of ascent.

25.02.: Muktinath to my Highcamp (4600m)
Crossing Thorong La from the “wrong side”, I had to set up tent to acclimatise. I´m pushing acclimatisation, going to the limits. Mild AMS in the night. Sleeping all geared up, so I can leave within minutes if necessary.

26.02.: Highcamp to Thorong L (5416m) to Thorong Pedi (4450m)

No more AMS, so I decide to do the pass. Leaving a little bit late, as I couldn´t sleep until midnight the night before. No problems until 5200m, then mild AMS again. Decide to move on , crossing Thorong La at 14.30. On the other side of the pass, the descent is gentle, so I suffer from some headache until Thorong Pedi. Some things you only accept if you learn them the hard way.

27.02 – 02.03: Walking from Thorong Pedi to Bulbule, the end of my trek ( 276,69km in total, 14274m up and 12732m down)